Shared Top Border

MDD Holiday November 2005
Deep South Diving, Um Tondoba, Marsa Alam, Red Sea

In attendance; Colin and Alison Thompson, John Burge, Adam Clifton and Stephanie Parsons

Day 1 - arrival

After a long days travelling and a 3 hour transfer from Hurghada airport we arrived at Deep South Diving at about 10ish, what can only be described as a culture shock then followed. We knew that the centre was remote, but were not quite prepared for exactly how remote. After miles and miles of completely empty desert we pulled in to the 'Bedouin Village', our home for the next 7 days. It sits on a rocky hill overlooking the dive centre on the beach. There is NOTHING else there. But this is what we came for; access to some of the best dive sites in the Red Sea and away from the tourist traps and bustle of the main resorts up North. Our huts were basic, but clean and perfectly adequate for our needs. Meals were served in a restaurant consisting of some small tables and cushions. Once we settled in and got used to it, it was very nice. We all stood around for a bit not quite sure of what to do, but once introduced to Karim (the owner) and served some food, we relaxed a bit. This turned out to be the key to diving here, relax, relax and then relax some more. we met the staff and our guide for the week - Wael - and then turned in for an early night after going through some basics and then the agenda for the next day.

Day 2 - Local dives; Marsa Mikke and Marsa Un Tondoba

We started early every day, no later than 9 and sometimes as early as 6. A nice routine, as we got two dives in by 2 or three in the afternoon and then had a chance for another dive after lunch or a snooze. Wael took us by Zodiac (RIB) to a local reef, Marsa Mikke, for a warm up and check dive. Dropping in to 20m+ visibility and 25 degrees of water took some adjustments, some of us did have to keep blinking as we have our underwater focal range permanently set to 3-5 metres! After some skills checks we set of round the reef. A nice warm up dive. After returning to the centre for gas fills we set of again for Marsa Um Tondoba. The reef was extraordinary, pristine corals of all the colours you can imagine and fish everywhere. Used to seeing a few species, we could not possibly keep check of all the different fish we were seeing; parrotfish, sergeant fish, blue spotted rays, bannerfish, various butterfly fish, anemone fish and the newly identified 'Fury Cycling Fish' as described by our fish ID expert Stephanie (see right). Back to the centre for lunch we called it a day as we were still tired from the journey.

Day 3 - Abo Dabbad, North and South side

A short car ride away was the spectacular bay of Abo Dabbad. On reflection one of the most popular sites of the holiday. We started on the North side, a reef that goes down to about 30 metres, but which is absolutely covered with life in the 3-10 metre range. We could have identified 20-30 species easily, and only in the first few minutes! In particular; eagle rays, lionfish, crocodile fish, emperor angelfish, puffer fish, scorpion fish, yellowtail surgeon fish, banded cleaner shrimps and about five types of butterfly fish. Picture opportunities were endless and we will be putting together a selection for anyone who wants to take a look. It was on this dive that Adam proposed to Steph, kneeling on the sand and producing a ring at 12 metres was not quite what she was expecting, but she said yes anyway, a first for MDD we think! After a short interval we set of for the south side via the middle of the bay to visit the turtles for the first time, one of which we were informed was 80 years old. Around the pinnacles at the south side was covered in lionfish, something that does not seem to move away when you approach, probably due to the nasty looking spines on their backs. Back through the turtles we saw Ramora feeding on their backs, a strange looking fish with an upside down mouth. A lovely site and one we would return to for our last day.

Day 4 - Dolphin House on the liveaboard MV TALA

A very early start down to the jetty and on to the big liveaboard owned by Karims' business partner Fisell (sorry, not sure of spelling!). A two hour trip to the Samadai Marine Park and the Dolphin House reef. On the first dive, Karim guided us down the outside of the reef and along a sandy bottom and back up the side of the reef. The usual collection of fish were about and by now we had gotten used to seeing several blue spotted rays, anemone fish, butterfly fish (very common) and all manner of colourful marine life. Perhaps the only let down of the whole trip was that we did not see Dolphins. Apparently the weather needs to be rough for them to shelter in the reef at Dolphin House and we not in luck. Never mind, we had to settle for spectacular coral gardens and atmospheric swim-thrus. On the second dive Wael led the group, which now consisted of two Belgian divers, Pascal and Silvia, and a non English-speaking Russian guy with a big camera. We were led around and inside the reef and into some caves. The underwater scenery was magnificent, floating between walls of coral it is very easy to get distracted and forget all about who you are supposed to be diving with. By now we were completely in the swing of things and a very relaxing time was had by all.

Day 5 - Elphinstone

Another trip on TALA, this time with a not quite so early start! Elphinstone is reckoned by many to be the best site in the whole Red Sea. Opinions in the group vary, between pretty dam good and out-of-this-world-spectacular, you will have to make your own minds up when you see the DVD that was recorded. The reef rises from 80-90 metres, a fairly sheer wall of corals inhabited by the usual suspects. In particular Napoleon Wrasse, Picasso fish, Groupers and Giant Trigger fish. After we swam round the reef we settled in about 4-8 metres of water over the plateau for the main attraction; Oceanic White Tips. Before long we had two or three swimming in and around the divers. We were told before they were not dangerous, only after did we hear all the stories about people being 'nudged' and SMBs being eaten! The viz on this site was possibly the best the whole trip, estimates vary, but when you get to 30 metres or so it becomes difficult to tell! The second dive was much the same, but round the other side of the reef and back to the plateau for some more shark spotting.

Day 6 - Local dives; Erg El Torfa and Torfa Mikke

The local area has eight dive sites and this day we explored a few more of them. More picture opportunities. By now we had got used to seeing the usual suspects and were on the look out for less common and more unusual critters. In particular we saw this stone looking fish (a Scorpion or Stone fish?) slowly crawling along the sand on tiny legs. The only way you could spot it was from the trail it left. Very strange to seeing this fish very slowly inching its way along the sand. Wael was keen to point out some of the smaller animals, in particular these wonderful looking shrimps, probably as he is so used to seeing all the colourful ones that we were so taken aback by on the first dives. The night dive on this day was definitely worth the extra effort. Giant Morays (and we mean 'Giant') and Spanish Dancers that come out at night.

Day 7 - Return to Abo Dabbad

It is difficult to describe the fish life at this site. So varied, numerous and colourful that you can quietly site in one spot and be surrounded by all sorts of fish like a concentrated aquarium. In fact, you cannot get aquariums with this amount of fish in them! The whole group agreed this was the best site and in talking about doing another trip next year this will definitely be on our list. More eagles rays and turtles. The last dive was a little sad as we waved goodbye to the reef and headed back to shore.

Many thanks to Karim and his team for making it a great holiday and to Colin, Alison, John, Adam and Steph for all getting along and helping each other whenever required.

On reflection, we all want to go back here again next year, and with the knowledge we now have of the centre and the sites, we know exactly what, and what not, to do next time.

Deep South Diving Centre